Duramax007 said: Thanks for all the responses. Engagement of 4WD eliminated the noise, except sometimes in reverse I know my limitations but with medical problems and prescription costs Id like your advice before going to a shop because I wouldnt trust any of them to tell me anything other than everything needs replaced just to repair a minor issue. my 2001 chevy tahoe 44 when im drive slow or fast is making a metal to metal loud pop almost as if my wheels are try n to catch on some thing can u please help figure it out thank u have blessed evning If you guys have any other suggestions about what I should check let me know. When shifted out of 4wd, the switch opens up and no . Learn how your comment data is processed. When the recall work (N49) Left outer tie rod was done mileage 67,800. Checked for play in front wheels and nothing.. It gets louder at higher speeds and when i accelerate. It also makes a slight clicking or popping type sound every once in a while when turning the steering wheel in either direction. If the noise is not there under power, but when you are cruising, these mounts could be allowing the motor to lay over to one side putting pressure on shifter levers, exhaust pipes, fuel lines or cables forcing them to rub on the body of the vehicle. I own a 1994 Ford F-150 (6 cyl/auto). When you turn the steering wheel a higher load is being applied to the power steering pump. My 44 still works great. That fixed it and she was like new again. Thanks. Hi I hope there are still people responding to comments on this post. Get your vehicle to a qualified drivetrain specialist as soon as possible for a full inspection. It's like clockwork, every 10,000 miles I get that "binding/grinding" feeling when I back out of my driveway each morning. I took it to a shop and they told me that the entire rear differential needed to be replaced because the fluid was all-shiny. I believe I have a Worn gear set due to lack of lubrication or overloading issue. considerably when it comes to this matter, produced me in my opinion consider it from numerous The rear wheel bearings were a little noisy so I set about changing them and whilst I was there I also changed the rear shocks and brake pads. One suggestion would be to check worn motor and transmission mounts. The problem did not start at that point. Before you curse your steering system, you need to pinpoint the actual cause of problem. 2.I did go over a dip the other day and the truck swayed back and forth over this dip; it was warmed up; in hot weather and I noticed the noise started again and lasted much longer several miles and was not as loud. Check the t-case fluid. Ive been hearing a popping noise coming from the passenger side rear at idle. Thanks. But Ive noticed that when running at 75mph, as soon as I add a touch of gas, or the ACC (adaptive cruise control) does so automatically, I hear a turbine-like whine from the rear undercarriage. Sounds like you have more than "stand by" clutch engagement. The car went trough Major []. Auto 4 should not change the way the vehicle reacts whether on pavement or gravel and only activates the 4 wheel drive upon slippage of the rear wheels. Jul 6, 2008 #2 B. boostaholic Full Access Member. But it increases only when accelerating only. We assume youve done a thorough investigation of the wheel and chassis, checking for things like loose splash shields and bent brake shrouds. I had a transfer case chain do the same thing. I have a Jeep Grand Cherokee 44 with the 318 in it and it has this rattle can sound coming from the passenger tire its random between 50 and 60mph but at 70 its constant and my fiance just replaced 4 tierods and steering stabilizer the noise started when we changed the breaks it also does it when we hit bumps also our oil keeps disappearing but its not burning it and there is no trail when driving sometimes the check Gage light comes on but we just replaced the solonid for that but still does it often.
